Der 47-Jährige Simone Moro stellt jedoch klar, dass unsere Expedition hier noch nicht endet’.
Die Genehmigung, den Manaslu zu besteigen, gelte schließlich für insgesamt 75 Tage.
Eine Winterbesteigung hat Moro allerdings abgehakt. ,Es braucht mindestens zwei bis drei Wochen Sonnenschein, bis sich die fünf Meter dicke Neuschneeschicht an den Flanken des Manaslu so weit gesetzt hat, dass man an einen Aufstieg denken kann.’
Tamara Lunger und Simone Moro wollen sich jetzt erst einmal in die Khumbu-Region fliegen lassen, um sich im Gebiet um den Mount Everest fit zu halten.
Wenn es die Verhältnisse am Manaslu zulassen, wollen die beiden zum achthöchsten Berg der Erde zurückkehren, um ihr Projekt doch noch zu verwirklichen: eine kombinierte Besteigung des 8167 Meter hohen Hauptgipfels und des vorgelagerten 7992 Meter hohen Pinnacle East.
Aber eben erst im Frühling.”
Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts
04 March 2015
20 February 2015
Manaslu (8.163 m) winterexpeditie 2015 Simone Moro & Tamara Lunger
Simone & Tamara zitten in het basiskamp. Er ligt een twee meter sneeuw.
Ze hebben 31 dagen de tijd om de Manaslu te beklimmen en af te dalen via de East Pinnacle. Op 21 maart begint de lente.
Useful links
Vertaling bericht op Montagna uit het Italiaans neer het Nederlands.
Kathmandu, Nepal - "Sneeuw, sneeuw en nog meer sneeuw. Gek het bedrag dat is gevallen. " Spreekt dus Simone Moro aangekomen 17 februari in het basiskamp van Manaslu samen met Tamara Lunger. De twee landde in Kathmandu op 16, en met de helikopter hebben snel de basis bereikt van de achtduizender in de Himalaya gisteren, ondanks de zware sneeuw, ze hebben de kok en hulpkok behaald. Er zijn minstens 2 meter sneeuw op de grond op de Manaslu, zoals verteld door de Simone Moro in een van de video's die al zijn gemaakt en verstuurd vanuit Manaslu. Vandaag is het weer verbeterd en volgens de laatste updates eindelijk de zon schijnt, dus waarschijnlijk het kleine team zal de activiteiten van de bouw van het basiskamp blijven. "Zodra het weer het toelaat - in feite, schreef gisteren op zijn blog op de website van de Gazzetta dello Sport -, moeten we de helikopter weer reizen vliegen" shuttles ", dus je hebt alles wat je nodig hebt hier eindelijk onze expeditie. In ieder geval is er geen haast, want met al die sneeuw in de muur, we hebben veel geduld voordat je beweegt ... ". Bedenk dat het doel van Simone Moro en TamaraLunger is de winterbeklimming via de normale route van de Manaslu (8163 meter hoog) en dan in de afdaling de top van de East Pinnacle West (7.992 meter).
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, Manaslu Base Camp interview ============================================================================================================================================================================================================================ Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, Manaslu Base Camp interview 19.02.2015 by Planetmountain Interview with Italian alpinists Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, currently at Manaslu base camp where they are hoping to make the first winter enchainment of the Main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle (7992m).
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are already at Manaslu Base Camp, intent on climbing the eighth highest mountain in the world in winter. And, furthermore, to enchain the main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle, the ”secondary" peak, or rocky pinnacle, that rises to 7,992 meters, climbed for the first time on 10/11/1986 by two mountaineering legends: the Poles Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer. In short, this is a project that is by no means easy nor usual, also because the two reached BC two days ago and have little more than thirty days (31 to be exact) to fulfill their mission. On 21 March the winter season comes to an end... By the way, should they be successful then this would also be the first ascent of Manaslu carried out completely in the winter, since the first winter ascent carried out by the Poles Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski was completed on 12 January 1984, but the expedition reached base Camp on 2 December, and on 21 December (the first day of winter) there were already at Camp 3. Details some will say... Perhaps so, but it’s just as true that in mountaineering in general, and on ascents such as these, details are important. ============================================================================================================================================================================================================================ 19.02.2015 by Planetmountain Interview with Italian alpinists Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, currently at Manaslu base camp where they are hoping to make the first winter enchainment of the Main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle (7992m). Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are already at Manaslu Base Camp, intent on climbing the eighth highest mountain in the world in winter. And, furthermore, to enchain the main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle, the ”secondary" peak, or rocky pinnacle, that rises to 7,992 meters, climbed for the first time on 10/11/1986 by two mountaineering legends: the Poles Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer. In short, this is a project that is by no means easy nor usual, also because the two reached BC two days ago and have little more than thirty days (31 to be exact) to fulfill their mission. On 21 March the winter season comes to an end... By the way, should they be successful then this would also be the first ascent of Manaslu carried out completely in the winter, since the first winter ascent carried out by the Poles Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski was completed on 12 January 1984, but the expedition reached base Camp on 2 December, and on 21 December (the first day of winter) there were already at Camp 3. Details some will say... Perhaps so, but it’s just as true that in mountaineering in general, and on ascents such as these, details are important. Someone who knows a thing or two about this is Simone Moro, obviously the brainchild behind this project as well as being a reference point for winter ascents of the Himalayan giants seeing that he has made three first winter ascents: Shisha Pangma (8027 m) with Piotr Morawski, Makalu (8463 m) with Denis Urubko and Gasherbrum II (8035 m) with Urubko and Cory Richards. Moro has opted to share the Manaslu adventure with Tamara Lunger, the 1986 born alpinist from Bolzano who became only the second Italian female alpinist (after Nives Meroi) to summit K2 without oxygen. Choosing to team up with Lunger is both interesting and also beautiful, which gives credence to the strength of this young woman, to her stubbornness and her innate love for the mountains. This is certainly a great team... and time will tell whether they’ll be successful. In the meantime, while snow falls onto Manaslu BC, here are the first impressions “hot off the press" (so to speak) from Moro and Lunger. Simone, Tamara, I’ve read that you’re in Base Camp already... after catching sight of Manaslu for the first time, what did you think? Simone Moro: The first view was good, the East Pinnacle looks like a large. But I saw too much snow, here at BC it’s already two meters high. Tamara Lunger: I looked up, I felt the temperatures and hugged Simone, saying: "I think we really stand a chance!” If I’ve understood correctly, you’ll first attempt a winter ascent to the main summit of Manaslu and then decide whether to go for what appears to be the "icing" on the cake: the East Pinnacle… Can you give us an idea of the commitment? Simone, can you put this in perspective by comparing it to your other winter ascents? Simone: Exactly. That's the plan. But I thought we’d set off immediately, right on our arrival at BC, but the addition 50cm of fresh snow and lack of gear has forced us to wait a bit. Also because it started snowing just a few hours after we arrived here. Comparing this winter ascent to others is difficult. I don’t know this mountain. It doesn’t appear very difficult technically, but this year we will have to wade through the snow and I hope we won’t risk too many avalanches… Tamara: We'll try to do both, but success doesn’t only depend on our willpower and dreams.. For me certainly it will be a battle against the cold! The project doesn’t seem easy in the slightest. Simone, in order of importance, what are the things that you’re worried about most? Simone: Avalanches are certainly what worry me most! Then the cold and the wind, but avalanches are top of the list. We’ve been told that it hasn’t snowed so much for 22 years… Out of interest: why did choose Tamara for this trip? Simone: Instinct... after having introduced her to Himalayan climbing in 2099 and joined her on some other projects, I observed her carefully and thought that she is strong enough and mature enough to attempt a winter ascent. Tamara ... what was your initial reaction? Did you immediately say yes or did you take your time and think about it? Tamara: I said yes right away, because Simone had already asked me the previous year. I was very pleased, proud and happy, because I saw it as an importante step in my climbing career. Preparation ... how have you “trained" for this expedition? And Simone, what do you consider most important in these "adventures" Tamara: I train by doing ski mountaineering, running, rock climbing and ice climbing or cycling. Apart from this though, the mental preparation is the most important aspect Simone: In all honest, for years, decades even, I’ve never stopped training. It’s part of my daily life now, a personal discipline. For this expedition I ran a lot and did exercises to build up my muscle bulk. Obviously climbing remains a constant for a mountaineer, and when I want to improve technically I train on my board at home, alone, thinking about what lies in store. Ridges and gullies are where I train regularly and the Orobie, my backyard mountains, are perfect for this. Logistics, gear, communication... I imagine you've planned everything in minute detail. But what can't you do without? Tamara: My lucky charm and the trust from the people I love. Simone: This is my 53rd expedition and by now I could organise everything in my sleep. But I prefer to reamin wide awake and check my notes that I jotted down during previous expeditions. The only thing I would never do without are my good spirits and my climbing partner. I hate drawn faces or those who have to be downbeat. What do you expect from each other, in short, what sort of team (and mountaineers) do you want to be? Simone: I think Tamara is a bulldozer and therefore her I expect to see a turbo diesel engine at work. As for myself, I hope I can count on good health (I had the flu the week before we left). I hope we'll be lucky with the weather and that the snowpack will be OK. Tamara: I want to just be myself, maybe with the ability to suffer a bit, like the Poles; - ... Then all we need is to get on well together and will give our dreams some wings! ;) What about the timing, apart from the end of winter... talking of which there isn't much time left ... Simone: Yes, we have time until 21 March 21... let's see. Tamara: If good weather comes we'll give it all we've got, then we'll see further! I'm not an expert in winter climbing;-) Now that the adventure has really began, deep down in your hearts, what do you hope most of all? Simone: I reckon it's time for it to stop snowing and let us give it a go ;-) Tamara: The best would be for us to summit. But the most important thing is that we return home safely, and with a lot more experience under our belts.
Ze hebben 31 dagen de tijd om de Manaslu te beklimmen en af te dalen via de East Pinnacle. Op 21 maart begint de lente.
Useful links
Vertaling bericht op Montagna uit het Italiaans neer het Nederlands.
Kathmandu, Nepal - "Sneeuw, sneeuw en nog meer sneeuw. Gek het bedrag dat is gevallen. " Spreekt dus Simone Moro aangekomen 17 februari in het basiskamp van Manaslu samen met Tamara Lunger. De twee landde in Kathmandu op 16, en met de helikopter hebben snel de basis bereikt van de achtduizender in de Himalaya gisteren, ondanks de zware sneeuw, ze hebben de kok en hulpkok behaald. Er zijn minstens 2 meter sneeuw op de grond op de Manaslu, zoals verteld door de Simone Moro in een van de video's die al zijn gemaakt en verstuurd vanuit Manaslu. Vandaag is het weer verbeterd en volgens de laatste updates eindelijk de zon schijnt, dus waarschijnlijk het kleine team zal de activiteiten van de bouw van het basiskamp blijven. "Zodra het weer het toelaat - in feite, schreef gisteren op zijn blog op de website van de Gazzetta dello Sport -, moeten we de helikopter weer reizen vliegen" shuttles ", dus je hebt alles wat je nodig hebt hier eindelijk onze expeditie. In ieder geval is er geen haast, want met al die sneeuw in de muur, we hebben veel geduld voordat je beweegt ... ". Bedenk dat het doel van Simone Moro en TamaraLunger is de winterbeklimming via de normale route van de Manaslu (8163 meter hoog) en dan in de afdaling de top van de East Pinnacle West (7.992 meter).
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, Manaslu Base Camp interview ============================================================================================================================================================================================================================ Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, Manaslu Base Camp interview 19.02.2015 by Planetmountain Interview with Italian alpinists Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, currently at Manaslu base camp where they are hoping to make the first winter enchainment of the Main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle (7992m).
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are already at Manaslu Base Camp, intent on climbing the eighth highest mountain in the world in winter. And, furthermore, to enchain the main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle, the ”secondary" peak, or rocky pinnacle, that rises to 7,992 meters, climbed for the first time on 10/11/1986 by two mountaineering legends: the Poles Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer. In short, this is a project that is by no means easy nor usual, also because the two reached BC two days ago and have little more than thirty days (31 to be exact) to fulfill their mission. On 21 March the winter season comes to an end... By the way, should they be successful then this would also be the first ascent of Manaslu carried out completely in the winter, since the first winter ascent carried out by the Poles Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski was completed on 12 January 1984, but the expedition reached base Camp on 2 December, and on 21 December (the first day of winter) there were already at Camp 3. Details some will say... Perhaps so, but it’s just as true that in mountaineering in general, and on ascents such as these, details are important. ============================================================================================================================================================================================================================ 19.02.2015 by Planetmountain Interview with Italian alpinists Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, currently at Manaslu base camp where they are hoping to make the first winter enchainment of the Main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle (7992m). Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are already at Manaslu Base Camp, intent on climbing the eighth highest mountain in the world in winter. And, furthermore, to enchain the main summit (8163m) with the East Pinnacle, the ”secondary" peak, or rocky pinnacle, that rises to 7,992 meters, climbed for the first time on 10/11/1986 by two mountaineering legends: the Poles Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer. In short, this is a project that is by no means easy nor usual, also because the two reached BC two days ago and have little more than thirty days (31 to be exact) to fulfill their mission. On 21 March the winter season comes to an end... By the way, should they be successful then this would also be the first ascent of Manaslu carried out completely in the winter, since the first winter ascent carried out by the Poles Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski was completed on 12 January 1984, but the expedition reached base Camp on 2 December, and on 21 December (the first day of winter) there were already at Camp 3. Details some will say... Perhaps so, but it’s just as true that in mountaineering in general, and on ascents such as these, details are important. Someone who knows a thing or two about this is Simone Moro, obviously the brainchild behind this project as well as being a reference point for winter ascents of the Himalayan giants seeing that he has made three first winter ascents: Shisha Pangma (8027 m) with Piotr Morawski, Makalu (8463 m) with Denis Urubko and Gasherbrum II (8035 m) with Urubko and Cory Richards. Moro has opted to share the Manaslu adventure with Tamara Lunger, the 1986 born alpinist from Bolzano who became only the second Italian female alpinist (after Nives Meroi) to summit K2 without oxygen. Choosing to team up with Lunger is both interesting and also beautiful, which gives credence to the strength of this young woman, to her stubbornness and her innate love for the mountains. This is certainly a great team... and time will tell whether they’ll be successful. In the meantime, while snow falls onto Manaslu BC, here are the first impressions “hot off the press" (so to speak) from Moro and Lunger. Simone, Tamara, I’ve read that you’re in Base Camp already... after catching sight of Manaslu for the first time, what did you think? Simone Moro: The first view was good, the East Pinnacle looks like a large. But I saw too much snow, here at BC it’s already two meters high. Tamara Lunger: I looked up, I felt the temperatures and hugged Simone, saying: "I think we really stand a chance!” If I’ve understood correctly, you’ll first attempt a winter ascent to the main summit of Manaslu and then decide whether to go for what appears to be the "icing" on the cake: the East Pinnacle… Can you give us an idea of the commitment? Simone, can you put this in perspective by comparing it to your other winter ascents? Simone: Exactly. That's the plan. But I thought we’d set off immediately, right on our arrival at BC, but the addition 50cm of fresh snow and lack of gear has forced us to wait a bit. Also because it started snowing just a few hours after we arrived here. Comparing this winter ascent to others is difficult. I don’t know this mountain. It doesn’t appear very difficult technically, but this year we will have to wade through the snow and I hope we won’t risk too many avalanches… Tamara: We'll try to do both, but success doesn’t only depend on our willpower and dreams.. For me certainly it will be a battle against the cold! The project doesn’t seem easy in the slightest. Simone, in order of importance, what are the things that you’re worried about most? Simone: Avalanches are certainly what worry me most! Then the cold and the wind, but avalanches are top of the list. We’ve been told that it hasn’t snowed so much for 22 years… Out of interest: why did choose Tamara for this trip? Simone: Instinct... after having introduced her to Himalayan climbing in 2099 and joined her on some other projects, I observed her carefully and thought that she is strong enough and mature enough to attempt a winter ascent. Tamara ... what was your initial reaction? Did you immediately say yes or did you take your time and think about it? Tamara: I said yes right away, because Simone had already asked me the previous year. I was very pleased, proud and happy, because I saw it as an importante step in my climbing career. Preparation ... how have you “trained" for this expedition? And Simone, what do you consider most important in these "adventures" Tamara: I train by doing ski mountaineering, running, rock climbing and ice climbing or cycling. Apart from this though, the mental preparation is the most important aspect Simone: In all honest, for years, decades even, I’ve never stopped training. It’s part of my daily life now, a personal discipline. For this expedition I ran a lot and did exercises to build up my muscle bulk. Obviously climbing remains a constant for a mountaineer, and when I want to improve technically I train on my board at home, alone, thinking about what lies in store. Ridges and gullies are where I train regularly and the Orobie, my backyard mountains, are perfect for this. Logistics, gear, communication... I imagine you've planned everything in minute detail. But what can't you do without? Tamara: My lucky charm and the trust from the people I love. Simone: This is my 53rd expedition and by now I could organise everything in my sleep. But I prefer to reamin wide awake and check my notes that I jotted down during previous expeditions. The only thing I would never do without are my good spirits and my climbing partner. I hate drawn faces or those who have to be downbeat. What do you expect from each other, in short, what sort of team (and mountaineers) do you want to be? Simone: I think Tamara is a bulldozer and therefore her I expect to see a turbo diesel engine at work. As for myself, I hope I can count on good health (I had the flu the week before we left). I hope we'll be lucky with the weather and that the snowpack will be OK. Tamara: I want to just be myself, maybe with the ability to suffer a bit, like the Poles; - ... Then all we need is to get on well together and will give our dreams some wings! ;) What about the timing, apart from the end of winter... talking of which there isn't much time left ... Simone: Yes, we have time until 21 March 21... let's see. Tamara: If good weather comes we'll give it all we've got, then we'll see further! I'm not an expert in winter climbing;-) Now that the adventure has really began, deep down in your hearts, what do you hope most of all? Simone: I reckon it's time for it to stop snowing and let us give it a go ;-) Tamara: The best would be for us to summit. But the most important thing is that we return home safely, and with a lot more experience under our belts.
11 February 2015
Manaslu (8.163 m)winterexpedition 2015
Manaslu (8.163 m)winterexpedition 2015
Iré con Tamara Lunger, que es una chica italiana que también forma parte del equipo de The North Face, así como de La Sportiva y Garmin (tenemos los mismos patrocinadores).
Excerpt van de website van Tamara Lunger:
Nach meinem Gipfelerfolg am K2 hat mich gleich Simone Moro kontaktiert und mich gefragt, ob ich mitkommen möchte zu einer Winterexpedition. Eigentlich hatte ich mit dem Ziel schon abgeschlossen, aber der Gedanke gefiel mir, vor allem, weil ich mich zu jener Zeit in einem totalen Flow befand und glaubte, alles niederreißen zu können. Also sagte ich zu. Es war für mich auch eine Art Bestätigung, als wäre ich von der kleinen Heidi herangewachsen zu großen Tamara. Und natürlich machte es mich unheimlich stolz, dass er das Vertrauen in mein Können hatte. Destination war noch unklar, aber wir haben doch noch was gefunden;) Am 14.2. steigen wir in den Flieger und starten nach Nepal. Unser Ziel ist es eine Winterbesteigung des Manaslu zu machen, was heißt, wir befinden uns während der gesamten Expedition im kalendarischen Winter. Gyalzen Norbu, Artur Hajzer und Toshio Imanishi waren 1956 die Erstbesteiger des Berges. Der Manaslu wurde am 12. Januar 1984 erstmals von den Polen Berbeka Maciej und Gajewski Ryszard im Winter bestiegen, allerdings war die Besteigung nicht eine komplette Winterbesteigung. Simone und ich wollen nach der Akklimatisierung zunächst auf den 8163 Meter hohen Hauptgipfel und dann noch den East Pinnacle (7992m; der höchste 7000er) besteigen. Die Aufstiegsroute sowie Abstiegsroute soll der Normalweg von Nord Ost sein. Diese Überschreitung machten 1984 die beiden Polen Artur Hajzer und Jerzy Kukuczka,aber von Süden aufsteigend. Die Expedition wird 46 Tage dauern. Mit uns im Basislager werden wir einen Koch und einen Gehilfen haben. Ich freu mich richtig über dieses Abenteuer, obwohl ich weiß, dass ein Fehler in dieser Höhe in Kombination mit der Kälte wahrscheinlich den Tod bedeutet. Aber mit einem so erfahrenen Partner an meiner Seite, können wir schon Mal beruhigt starten. Was dann wirklich auf uns zukommen wird, das werden wir erst vor Ort sehen. Wir werden euch wieder fleißig informieren und auch in der Gazzetta dello Sport wird regelmäßig Bericht erstatten. Dann wünsche ich euch noch einen schönen Winterausklang, haltet uns die Daumen und wir sehen uns dann Ende März wieder, wo ich euch hoffentlich über eine erfolgreiche Expedition berichten kann.
Useful links
Iré con Tamara Lunger, que es una chica italiana que también forma parte del equipo de The North Face, así como de La Sportiva y Garmin (tenemos los mismos patrocinadores).
Excerpt van de website van Tamara Lunger:
Nach meinem Gipfelerfolg am K2 hat mich gleich Simone Moro kontaktiert und mich gefragt, ob ich mitkommen möchte zu einer Winterexpedition. Eigentlich hatte ich mit dem Ziel schon abgeschlossen, aber der Gedanke gefiel mir, vor allem, weil ich mich zu jener Zeit in einem totalen Flow befand und glaubte, alles niederreißen zu können. Also sagte ich zu. Es war für mich auch eine Art Bestätigung, als wäre ich von der kleinen Heidi herangewachsen zu großen Tamara. Und natürlich machte es mich unheimlich stolz, dass er das Vertrauen in mein Können hatte. Destination war noch unklar, aber wir haben doch noch was gefunden;) Am 14.2. steigen wir in den Flieger und starten nach Nepal. Unser Ziel ist es eine Winterbesteigung des Manaslu zu machen, was heißt, wir befinden uns während der gesamten Expedition im kalendarischen Winter. Gyalzen Norbu, Artur Hajzer und Toshio Imanishi waren 1956 die Erstbesteiger des Berges. Der Manaslu wurde am 12. Januar 1984 erstmals von den Polen Berbeka Maciej und Gajewski Ryszard im Winter bestiegen, allerdings war die Besteigung nicht eine komplette Winterbesteigung. Simone und ich wollen nach der Akklimatisierung zunächst auf den 8163 Meter hohen Hauptgipfel und dann noch den East Pinnacle (7992m; der höchste 7000er) besteigen. Die Aufstiegsroute sowie Abstiegsroute soll der Normalweg von Nord Ost sein. Diese Überschreitung machten 1984 die beiden Polen Artur Hajzer und Jerzy Kukuczka,aber von Süden aufsteigend. Die Expedition wird 46 Tage dauern. Mit uns im Basislager werden wir einen Koch und einen Gehilfen haben. Ich freu mich richtig über dieses Abenteuer, obwohl ich weiß, dass ein Fehler in dieser Höhe in Kombination mit der Kälte wahrscheinlich den Tod bedeutet. Aber mit einem so erfahrenen Partner an meiner Seite, können wir schon Mal beruhigt starten. Was dann wirklich auf uns zukommen wird, das werden wir erst vor Ort sehen. Wir werden euch wieder fleißig informieren und auch in der Gazzetta dello Sport wird regelmäßig Bericht erstatten. Dann wünsche ich euch noch einen schönen Winterausklang, haltet uns die Daumen und wir sehen uns dann Ende März wieder, wo ich euch hoffentlich über eine erfolgreiche Expedition berichten kann.
Useful links
- Manaslu winterexpedition Simone Moro
- Website Tamara Lunger
- Simone Moro & Tamara Lunger plannen wintertraverse op de Manaslu (8.163 m)
- Montagna.tv website (Italiaans)
- Tamara op de top van de K2
- Desnivel interviewt Simone Moro - in het Spaans -
- Simone Moro Offical Store
24 December 2014
K2 Winterexpeditie 2014/2015 cancelled
Winterexpeditie 2014-2015 naar de K2 via nieuwe route cancelled
Useful Links
Useful Links
19 September 2014
6000 m bereikt op de Shisha Pangma door Carlos Soria
Carlos Soria, otra vez al Shisha Pangma
Update 30 september
Carlos Soria se retira del Shisha Pangma debido a las malas condiciones de la montaña
Carlos Soria se retira del Shisha Pangma debido a las malas condiciones de la montaña
02 September 2014
Carlos Soria op weg naar Shisha Pangma - XXII-e 8000-er voor Carlos Soria -
Carlos Soria op weg naar Shisha Pangma
A sus 75 años, el alpinista español Carlos Soria sigue escribiendo la historia del alpinismo con letras mayúsculas. Se ha propuesto ser la persona de más edad en coronar los 14 'ochomiles', las 14 montañas más altas del planeta, todas en la cordillera del Himalaya.
El abulense ya tiene nuevo reto: el día 5 de septiembre comienza su nueva expedición hacia el Shisha Pangma que, con sus 8.027 m., ocupa el último puesto del ranking de altura de los 14 ochomiles.
Fuenta: http://encuentrosdigitales.rtve.es/2014/carlos_soria_.html
26 August 2014
Vakantie 2014 in Kandersteg
In Kandersteg een vakantiearrangement geboekt via booking.com in Haus Klopfenstein.
Onderstaande foto's zijn genomen op dinsdag, toen ik vanuit Kandersteg naar de Fründenhornhütte ben gelopen en afgedaald ben naar Kandersteg via
die Untere Fründenschnur. Het weer was prachtig.
.jpg)
.jpg)
07 July 2014
Met Jelle Staleman bergbeklimmen
Met Jelle Staleman bergbeklimmen.
Jelle is van de jongste generatie Nederlandse berggidsen. Ik maakte kennis met zijn collega Roeland van Oss in de klimhal Rocca.
+31 (0)6 48 26 56 28
info@jellestaleman.nl
Useful links
Jelle is van de jongste generatie Nederlandse berggidsen. Ik maakte kennis met zijn collega Roeland van Oss in de klimhal Rocca.
+31 (0)6 48 26 56 28
info@jellestaleman.nl
Useful links
04 May 2014
24 April 2014
24 January 2014
Nanga Parbat winterexpeditie (2)
15 Minutes of Nanga Parbat [in 30 seconds] from emilioprevitali on Vimeo.
- Interview with David Göttler
- Desnivel - Spaans - over voortgang expeditie
- Winterexpeditie 2015
- Winterexpeditie 2015 Danielle Nardi
- Elisabeth Revol
- Interview Elisabeth Revol
Elisabeth Revol's account 2009/12/27 What follows is a professional English translation of Ms. Elisabeth Revol's account of events surrounding her and Martin Minarik's summit of the East Peak of Annapurna, which occurred on April 19th, 2009. The account also describes the events surrounding Martin's disappearance on the mountain, during their descent.
Re: Annapurna Climb
On April 10, we left Annapurna's south base camp for the Machapuchare base camp, at 3700 metres. It was snowing. Conditions were difficult and taxing with 80 centimetres of new snow at the base camp. Our packs were also heavily loaded, with eight days worth of food and fuel. I hadn't been feeling well for the past four days which made this first day even more difficult. The next day we went up a very steep, narrow valley. Our first test: getting across the river. The valley was long but beautiful. Nevertheless, we had to be wary of the snow-covered, grassy slopes that were melting off as the hours went by. We set up our first camp at 5000 metres. On the 12th, we set off again, hoping to reach the glacier by crossing a snow-covered moraine. Once we reached the top, we realized that the glacier was too jumbled to travel on, so we decided to climb the slopes of Singu Chuli (a 6501 meter peak comprising numerous fluted ice slopes, very beautiful but very technical, which was going to require all our focus). Many sections were extremely steep, with inconsistent snow that needed to be pushed around to make any progress while planting our ice axes as firmly as possible in the event that we lost our footing. In short, the day was very draining both physically and emotionally and ended once again in snow and fog. We set up our camp on an exposed, cornice-loaded arete. On the 13th, we headed out under sunny skies towards the summit. At around 6000 metres, we decided to attempt a traverse via a series of mushroomed formations to reach the glacier. We lost all the elevation we had painstakingly gained. We roped up quite a few times because the terrain was very dangerous. In mid-afternoon, we finally set foot on the glacier via a traverse exposed to serac fall. Our total elevation gain was only 100 metres. A very difficult day technically. When we stepped onto the glacier, we found ourselves struggling through waist deep snow. We were on the move at daybreak. Not only were we wading through deep snow, but we also needed to break through a crust before sinking up to our waists. Martin was following me and we were finally making progress towards the summit. On that day, I believe that a lucky star was with us. The glacier was becoming more open and I was convinced that a huge crevasse would soon stop us in our tracks. Which is exactly what happened, except that we found a very narrow and exposed arch that allowed us to access the top of the glacial plateau. The traverse was like walking a tightrope and remains one of the most memorable moments of our climb, and also "a miracle". We set up our tent on the glacier flats and the wind picked up. On the 15th, we travelled across kilometres of deceptively rising terrain before reaching the slopes that led to the base of the Roc Noir. There was a lot of snow there as well, compounded by wind and snowstorms. It took us three days to reach the col and one day in the tent while we waited for the storm to abate. It had been eight days since we'd started out and we finally reached the Roc Noir (7485 m) on April 18. It was a milestone for us.... we had overcome all the adverse weather conditions... we were filled with joy at the sight of this incredible arete rising before us.... it was simply amazing ... mind-blowing. We continued to climb. The arete was very narrow and exposed at the start. We needed to be very careful, but it was so beautiful, ........ and breathtakingly airy. We set up our tent at around 7500 metres just past the Roc Noir. We would only have two days to do the traverse. After that, the winds would start gusting up to 180 and 200 km/h. On April 19, we set off at night for what would be our "SUMMIT DAY", with light packs. We decided to leave our camping gear behind. There was still lots of wind - blowing at 80-100 km/h. It was draining. My face was still raw from the day before. I was feeling physically strong and I had mentally transcended the difficulties. Martin had been quite tired since the day we spent in the tent waiting out the storm. (During those two nights, the pressure variations meant that, at times, we were at 7700 metres although we were physically only at 6600 metres. At that point, we weren't well acclimatized, which is very hard on the system. He ended up with a really bad headache.) We arrived at the base of the East Summit and the wind picked up again. As we reached the crest of the arete, I thought that I could hear jet engines.... but it was the wind funnelling through from the other side of the arete. I reached the summit and was overcome with joy: a joy as big as the arete and the mountain. We fell into each other's arms. Emotions were running high, but I was worried about Martin. He was exhausted. We did not reach the Central Summit, as the wind was much too strong. I lingered a bit longer on the East Summit, just to savour this "cherry on top of the cake that I had dreamt of so much from below" and we started our descent following the same route. We had to be very careful and focused; the terrain was steep and treacherous. Martin was becoming more and more tired and I was having to wait a long time for him. We arrived very late at our camp. Martin went into the tent with his crampons on, made a phone call and went to bed with all his gear on, having had nothing to drink. On the 20th, we continued our descent on the arete. The wind was draining. I hurriedly got to the other side of the Roc Noir to shield my raw face. The traverse was still just as finicky and esthetically beautiful. We reached the col just before nightfall. Martin was getting slower and slower and dozed off regularly. I was afraid for him, but more importantly, we were descending too slowly. We had been at altitudes unsuited for human life much too long. On the morning of the 21st, my fears about Martin were confirmed. Despite a full night's sleep, he hadn't recovered. On the contrary, his hands and face were swollen. I was afraid that he had oedema. It took him three hours to get ready that morning. That day, we needed to go back up and traverse towards Tare Kang. The route was very long but we wanted to descend the northeast face because all the other descent routes were too exposed to serac fall. Bad weather moved in very quickly that morning. I was breaking trail up front and waiting for Martin every half an hour or so. At one point, the wind picked up violently, the fog closed in around me and it started to snow shortly thereafter. Visibility was less than two metres. I continued down towards the col leading to Tare Kang. I waited half an hour for Martin, then an hour. What was he doing? He should have been here by now. I called him, no answer; but there was so much wind that he probably couldn't hear me. I was worried and decided to backtrack to meet up with him. I went back up to the point where I last left him. No one. I called out, no response. Tracks were quickly covered over; it was snowing heavily: there were already 40 centimetres of new snow. I returned to where I had waited for him for an hour. No one, no tracks, no response. What should I do? I couldn't find him, I had run out of water and food. I didn't have a tent.... I waited there for about half an hour with my head in my hands, my mind spinning with questions, and especially waiting for a sign, a sound from Martin. What had happened to him? Had he taken a fall, plummeted into a crevasse, or fallen asleep? I had no answers to any of these questions. I searched for him, I called him and there was no one on the arete. I was alone, lost in my thoughts. It was snowing heavily. I needed to make a decision. I decided to continue downwards. If I stayed there, I might die in an avalanche or from dehydration, which can trigger oedema at these high altitudes. I started down, but I couldn't see anything and couldn't distinguish the terrain features. I cut across many slopes and triggered large slabs under my feet. I was afraid and overwhelmed by these slopes, by the heavy snow and especially by what had just occurred. Martin was nowhere to be found and I didn't know what had happened to him. I pressed on, in this very dangerous terrain, which kept sluffing under my feet and stepped onto the glacier. It was very crevassed and required my full attention. There were lots of traps to avoid. I then found myself in a jumble of ice with a single ice axe. After some tense downclimbing, I decided to dig a hole in a crevasse and spend the night there. It took me an hour and a half to dig the hole. It stopped snowing halfway through the night. I started down at daybreak on the 22nd. A bank of clouds rose quickly from the valley. I hurriedly made a note of where I could travel on the glacier. I went up the serac band above me and traversed on the right. I couldn't see the arete from where I was, so I moved as quickly as possible towards the glacier flats. I suddenly found myself spread-eagled above a crevasse. My heart rate went up to 200 when I could only see blackness at the bottom. I ended up safe and sound on the glacier flats. I only needed to traverse to the moraine. At that point, I could see the descent route and observed a black spot around 6700 metres descending in my tracks. It had to be Martin. He was following my track. But where had he disappeared to, what had he done? I was now reassured. The bank of clouds rose up and I couldn't see him anymore. I then decided to continue my descent as I was out of food and water. I needed to notify the agency, my husband and search-and-rescue teams about Martin. My radio battery was dead. I arrived at the lodge at Tilicho base camp late in the afternoon. It was a very long descent on the moraine. It was too late to go down to Manang so I decided to spend the night there. On the 23rd, I left around 5:30 a.m. I arrived in Manang at noon and notified everyone. The helicopter wouldn't be able to fly that afternoon as the winds were too high. It came in around 6 a.m. the next day with two sherpas on board: Temba, our cook, and another. Together, we flew up the moraine and then along the toe of the glacier. There was no one there, no other tracks - only mine. Where was Martin? He should have been there. We dropped the two sherpas off at the lodge. They went back up the moraine to the toe of the glacier. I headed down to Pokara to provide the details of our ascent and descent. On the 24th, I flew out from Pokara in a helicopter to search the glacier and moraine and to pick up the two sherpas. We flew over the area without any luck...there was only my downtrack and no one had travelled in the area since. What had [happened]? Had he fallen into a crevasse after I had spotted him for the last time? Had he fallen off the mountain? Had he succumbed to oedema? All these questions remained unanswered. All I know is that the last time I saw him, he was following in my track at about 6700 metres. The rest is a question mark... On the 26th, Tendy from the agency sent four sherpas up the glacier.....They went up to 6800 metres and saw no one. The tracks were already covered over by the snow. Five days later, they came back down, without Martin. page up | Elisabeth Revol, France | Professionally translated by: Ms. Lise Gautron (Banff, Alberta) & Ms. Geneveive Wright (Canmore, Alberta)
18 January 2014
Nanga Parbat winterexpeditie
NANGA-IN-WINTER / BACK FROM C2 from emilioprevitali on Vimeo.
==============================================================================================================================================================================================================================Il video della spedizione Nanga Parbat Winter 2013 from Daniele Nardi on Vimeo.
============================================================================================================================================================================================================================== Una prima salita invernale ========================================================================== Simone Morro agenda winter 2015 =========================================================================== Flickr stream Daniele Nardi Winterexpeditie Nanga Parbat 201420 April 2013
Mt. Blanc in de winter
Mt. Blanc in winter
Col De Peuterey and Mont Blanc south face in winter from Jonathan Griffith on Vimeo.
24 September 2012
Tragedie in de Zwitserse bergen
Xenia Minder, partner van de bij het ongeluk omgekomen Erhard Loretan vertelt over het ongeluk op de Grünhorn, waarbij EL omkwam en zij het ongeluk overleefde. De oorzaak van het ongeluk was w.s. dat zij uitgleed.
Erhard Loretan was één van de beste Zwitserse klimmers.
Erhard Loretan, Xenia Minder, Alpinisme
20 May 2012
04 October 2010
17 August 2009
13 August 2008
Norit K2 Expeditie 2008 Wilco van Rooijen
Norit K2 Expeditie 2008 Wilco van Rooijen.
All dutch expedtion members were reunited in Islamabad Pakistan on Tuesday.
Climbers coming back to the Netherlands end of this week.
Useful links
All dutch expedtion members were reunited in Islamabad Pakistan on Tuesday.
Climbers coming back to the Netherlands end of this week.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)