28 January 2015

Elisabeth Revol back in France

Nanga Parbat: Elisabeth Revol's Account of Summit Push EMAIL PRINT SHARE TEXT Posted: Jan 26, 2015 12:22 pm EST (By Raheel Adnan) Elisabeth Revol is back home after a quick return trip from Nanga Parbat. In recent blog post, she details the amazing journey from 7800m on the mountain to France, in less than a week. Here is a summary of the article, with help from Google Translate. January 17th: The 7800m Day Elisabeth starts the chronicle with description of intense cold and the amazing beauty at around 7200m on the evening of January 16th. Everything except sleeping bags was frozen. Considering the wind factor, it was chilling somewhere around -40/-50 °C. However, the sunset at that altitude was simply breathtaking. The intense cold joined by excitement about upcoming summit push didn’t let the climbers sleep all night. It wasn't a long night, anyway. After spending an hour getting ready, the two climbers were out of their tent by 3 am. “The awkwardness of the narrow space (inside tent) disappeared; we were in our element - crampons and ice axes - at work” The ascent continued in freezing wintery conditions. “This was really the first time that I felt such a cold, I think. I knew that any stop or variation would be fatal. We were on a 8000er in extremely harsh conditions of winter. Even if the route wasn’t quite technical, winter conditions meant that it was one of the most committed climbs in my life.” By mid-day, they were at around 7800m where the route joins Hermann Buhl’s line of Nanga Parbat’s first ascent. But the weather was turning worse and they were forced to retreat. “When I reached out, I could "feel" the summit with the touch of my finger. It was very close. My heartbeat increased, but we were to remain calm. It was frustrating; wasn’t easy to turn around, especially when you look at all the progress made ​​so far.” The 10 Day Summit Push Elisabeth goes on to tell us about the progress that lead to summit push on 17th. “We left BC on Friday, January 9. Bags were heavy under the provisioning of 10 days to be spent at high altitude. The route was long. This year, it was the only possible route, others being partly bare ice and very dry.” First night was spent in the middle of Diamir glacier. On day two, they climbed on scree along the right bank of the glacier for a long time to C2, under Ganalo Peak. Following day, they tackle huge crevasses towards C3, at the foot of the route taken by Messner in 2000. Due to strong wind, they didn’t go any further on fourth day. On day-5, the climbers negotiated several seracs to reach C3 (around 6600mm). “Next day we continued our progression to 7000m. It was very cold. Tomek felt cold in the feet; I froze my nose tip. The sun came out late at around 11am. But we enjoyed a beautiful sunset.” A day later, they were bivouacking at 7200m. On eighth day, they went up (hoping to make a summit push), but turned back from 7500m. As Tomek said in his audio message, they miscalculated the distance. Day nine was the summit push day. The Descent From 7800m, the two climbers descended to bivouac at 7200m. However, they were out of gas and food by then. “To kill the hunger and thirst, we were discussing the project,” says Elisabeth. “We begin our descent, next day. We knew, we had to rely on ourselves, as Daniele had sent us a clear and directive message upon our arrival at C4; asserting that since we had not taken the radio, he would not trigger emergency if we had a situation, rather than encouraging us on our progress. Long live the "friendship" in the mountains...” The descent continued in good meteorological conditions as they reached 6500m. Tomek Disappeared “With a bang I see the feet of Tomek and his body tipping over: the snow bridge had ruptured. I scream "Tomek ...! ..." It was of no use, as he was already gone. I approached the edge of the crevasse. Blank ... the scene was horrible; I discovered a snow slope at 80°, and a black hole. My God! Tomek! I was still screaming his name, but there was no reply. Everything runs through my head: his children, his girlfriend Ana, my husband Jean-Christophe, and I alone on this hostile glacier ... Great moment of solitude...” Elisabeth goes on to describe the event of crevasse fall at around 6500m. “And finally, I see a very small thing - my God, it's Tomek- "Tomek, how are you? Did you broke something? Can you come back? It is high." He replied, “I do not think I broke anything, but I might not climb back up.” Elisabeth immediately went down to retrieve a rope, they had stored approximately 200m below. Upon her return, she called for Tomek but didn’t get any answer from crevasse. “Finally, from far away [I heard] "Eli ..." This wasn’t from the bottom of the crevasse, but on the left. After recovering from his emotions, he explained: he walked along the bottom of the crevasse on precarious bridges and found a possible exit.” Tomek was given painkillers and the two climbers slowly descended to lower camps and eventually reached BC. The Departure Elisabeth left BC on January 21st, to catch her flight from Islamabad on 23rd. “Very surprised at the negative version of Daniele; I can nevertheless reassure those around me that I had and that I will keep strong friendships.” She believes that good weather window on Nanga Parbat is gone. “I left the base camp under a blue sky, which is quickly going to change. The sky may have saved us before. As if for a month the mountain had accepted us and spared, and now it was time to leave this place.” Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.

Useful links

  1. Explorersweb

25 January 2015

Daniele Nardi and Elisabeth Revol with Tomek Mackiewicz split

Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz left the project of Daniele Nardi “Nanga Parbat 2015”

The decision to break the expedition in two, one composed by Daniele Nardi and Roberto Delle Monache and another one composed by Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz, depends on the choice of Elisabeth and Tomek to start the climb towards the summit autonomously. This has been done without any notice and without keeping contact with the Base Camp and the rest of the team. The project “Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition 2015” undergo a change.

The two climbing partners Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz, without communicating to Daniele Nardi and the rest of the team have decided to have an attempt to reach the Nanga Parbat summit.

A behavior that clearly collides with the initial plan of tackling the summit as a team, through the Mummery cliff and towards the summit all together.

Elisabeth and Tomek left the Base Camp seven days ago (January the 8th) without communicating their intentions and without giving any news to Daniele or local guide and agent of “Alpine Adventure Guides Pakistan” Ali Muhammed. Given the decision of Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz to tackle the summit autonomously, the team leader, Daniele Nardi, has been obliged to send them a message via the Thuraya telephone where he is acknowledging the fact that the two alpinists have abandoned the project. Daniele together with his team and the logistic support at the Base Camp, remains nevertheless ready to act in the case of any emergency.

This is a decision full of sense of responsibility and moral value since Elisabeth and Tomek have refused on purpose the radio making available from Ali and from the “Expedition”. The fact that they refused the radio does not allow the Base Camp to know their position and their health. The project “Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition 2015” of Daniele Nardi will keep going head anyhow together with Roberto Delle Monache.

In the following the message sent by Daniele Nardi to Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz yesterday (14/01/2015) at 17.42 (Italian time). “Dear Elisabeth and Tomek, I note from your internet communication that you have decided to attempt the summit independently from the expedition organized and led by “Daniele Nardi”. I will consider your summit attempt external to the project also if this project led us to participate to the expedition “Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition2015″, by me promoted, organized and guided. However, animated by sens of responsibility and alpinist moral value, I will do all my best giving you all logistics arrangement for any emergency. The fact that you have refused the radio from Ali and from the “Expedition” do not let us know about your position and your healthy. Confident that you will choose for the best, I give you my best wishes for attempting the summit, we support you. Daniele Nardi.”

Useful link

  1. Twitter account Daniele Nardi

14 December 2014

Spanish Language Tests online

Spanish Language Tests Online

  1. Spanish-test.net
  2. Cambridgeinstitute.net
  3. Don Quijote
Mi test de nivel de Español - Cambridgeinstitute.net- ha tenido el siguiente resultado: Puntuación: 35 | Nivel de Español: B1.I

09 December 2014

Film Hemelbestormers van Geertjan Lassche

Uitzending door de EO
VRIJDAG 26 DECEMBER 2014 | 20.25 UUR | NPO 3

Terugkijken kan via onderstaande link
Uitzending gemist
Mooie documentaire gezien op tweede kerstdag. De film gaf mij een goede
indruk van het leven tijdens een expeditie in de Himalaya.
Useful Links

  1. Website Geertjan Lassche
  2. Trailer Killerslope | Hemelbestormers
  3. Hoe maak je nou zo'n documentaire?
  4. Geertjan Lassche vertelt over Hemelbestormers
  5. 28 december De Reunie kijken
  6. Geertjan Lassche bij RTL Late Night
  7. DVD's van Geertjan Lassche bij Bol.com
  8. Ik wil het steentje in je schoen zijn
  9. De pitbull van de EO is geduldig, artikel NRC